How To Avoid “Deer In The Headlight” Lighting With Your On-Camera Flash

This post is written by Guest Contributor, Janet Ochs Lowenbach. If you are also interested in writing a guest blog, please reach out using the form in the Contact page.

There are lots of names for what an on-camera flash does to a subject:  Flash in the pan.  Powder in the face.  Deer in the headlights. They all mean the same thing, according to Duane Heaton, Sales Manager of Penn Camera in Rockville Pike, MD. “A small, on-camera flash provides very stark lighting conditions with harsh shadows, and it is very limited in the quality of lighting it provides; sometimes when the flash is so close to the lens, it produces red eye. Using an off-camera flash allows you to be more creative.”

Further, because of the digital camera’s inability to see a wide exposure latitude, you want to use a diffused flash (off camera) as much as possible to fill in the extremes of exposure. (To explain this example, film has an exposure latitude of 1:7, while digital cameras have an exposure latitude of 1:4.)

“When you add a second or even third light off the camera, you soften the light and the shadows, and minimize the extremes of exposure.” Heaton adds. “They give very directional light as well as energy to the scene.”

Nikon SB-900

Nikon SB-900

Placement of the off-camera flash depends on what effects you want to achieve. A nice portrait effect results from placing the off-camera light 45 degrees from the subject, where it produces that classic upside-down triangle on the cheek when the subject is looking at you.

Heaton says there is no single brand flash that is better than another. “Canon, Olympus, and Nikon flashes are all good and each is synchronized with its own brand of cameras. Nikon and Canon have been industry leaders for years because of the sheer size of their companies, and now Sony is getting it to the mix,” he adds.

You can use a flash that is wired to the camera, but with the latest technology, you can use a remote, either a generic radio remote or a wireless one specifically designed for working with your flash. Each of these will permit you to place your flash away from the camera and give you more flexibility.

The radio remote works up to a distance of 400 feet, but requires you to adjust the flash manually. A wireless system permits you to control each flash through the unit, with a TTL system that lets you make adjustments from the unit, without moving to it.

The key to the flexibility is, Heaton says, the fact that, “The popular pop-up flash can be used as a command flash that controls the off-camera flash or flashes. The pop-up can take on many different roles including acting as a fill or being solely in the commander mode with no effect on exposure.”

Heaton says you can use more than one off camera flash as long as you know how to control the light and the camera settings so that the camera and the flash talk to each other.

“The system is proprietary, or a closed loop, says Heaton.  So, you have to use Nikon flashes with a Nikon camera, a Canon flash with a Canon camera, etc.

Perhaps the hardest part of using flash in the TTP mode is the manual. You have to learn how to make the camera and the flashes talk to each other, but since the manuals are translated from the Japanese, they are often difficult to follow.  “Nikons are menu driven and very intricate; you have to know what button to push and this is hard to translate in a manual from the Japanese. There is an even greater problem with digital cameras.”

Heaton and his colleague at Penn give hands-on training in flash use. He also says there are many opportunities outside the store for classes and one-on-one training. The problems with manuals, he says has expanded the opportunities for teaching and education.

Trying To Shoot From Different Angle

Sometimes changing the angle you frame makes your photograph look more interesting. As we all know, composition is the most important factor in photography, and we have to work on it hard to get a better and better result every time we take a shot. Sometimes we try to apply the Rule of Thirds (which is an important photography concept), and sometimes we try to arrange the objects in the photo in a triangle as we frame the shot or adjust the horizon while shooting beautiful landscapes. There are also times when none of these composition rules work well, and you just shoot with your imagination, and it turns out to be one of your best shots. People who know these rules also know how to avoid them, when that approach works best in the present situation. They first learn the rules and then try to break them. Recently, When I was touring from east coast to mid west region, I was driving somewhere between Indianapolis and Chicago. I was tired of continuous driving and thinking of taking an exit somewhere in the nearest rest area. In the mean-time, I saw a beautiful landscape with a gorgeous sunset through my rear view mirror. Without thinking much, I pulled my car off the road, took my camera out and snapped multiple sunset shots. When I did an instant review of those photographs in the LCD screen, I feel I had only produced a pretty common sunset shot. I then tried to think about shooting with different angles and framing other objects in the frame as well. The sun was going down really fast and I couldn't think any more about my next frame. After few minutes, I saw a 18 wheeler coming from far away, and I imagined framing it inside and took a shot. When I played back that shot, I found it very interesting.

Sunset somewhere in the mid-west

Sunset somewhere in the mid-west

I don't know if you agree with me or not but I find this picture very interesting with the angles created by pull-off area and road lines with giant 18 wheeler truck framed inside. Whenever I see this photo, I feel like I am still there trying to think of another way to capture this beautiful sunset.

Things To Remember While Shooting At The Beach

This post is written by Guest Contributor, Janet Ochs Lowenbach. If you are also interested in writing a guest blog, please reach out using the form in the Contact page.

When you take out the rafts and sun hats, don’t forget to bring along your camera, because summer is an excellent time to take beach scenic shots. If you choose the right time, and are careful to protect your camera from the elements, you can get some beautiful photos to add to your portfolio and your wall.

First: the warnings. Sand and salt spray can play havoc with your camera, so use your head.  Don’t open your camera any more than you have to: change your memory card at home. Keep your camera shaded under a blanket or umbrella not like a sitting duck baking in the hot sun. Don’t change your lenses at the moment your friend is shaking out a towel. And if sand or salt get in, immediately and carefully attempt to blow it or wipe it out.  If you are not sure you have removed the offenders, take your camera to your repair shop.

If the weather is too harsh, consider leaving your camera at home and bringing a sealed disposable or simple underwater camera. Or, you might use a plastic bag over the camera body drawn forward and secured around the (open) lens with a rubber band.

Be careful with the lighting. Beach (and snow) scenes are so bright they fool the camera into underexposing.  Do set the exposure properly either by reading off your hand or an 18 percent gray card and shooting on manual. Or simply open up one or two f stops to increase the light. You can check the pictures on the camera back if you have a digital camera and compensate accordingly.

Don’t just stand there and shoot into the waves: Look for different ways of seeing, other kinds of lines that lead the eye to the subject, and different ways to revealing the subject. Ask yourself what story you are trying to tell about the waves —are they symbols of a gentle nature? A ferocious adversary?  Then try to demonstrate your answers.  You've been unaccustomed to thinking like this, but such thinking will help you produce out-of-the-ordinary pictures.

Look for the quality of light. Don’t go out at noon and blast away. Go out in the early morning even before sunset or in the late afternoon, when the sun is low in the sky.  At night, you will find a warm, reddish light that makes your photos glow with fire and emotion.

Composition is important. You don’t want your subject smack in the middle of the photo. Picture a tic-tac-toe grid over your viewfinder. (This is the rule of thirds.) You want your subject not in the center but at one of the points where the lines intersect.

Shooting-at-beach-2.jpg

Walk around the shot, face the waves, move closer and shoot sideways so the water fills the frame and you have land and water as the background. Shoot small things — the bubbles in the water as it pours over the shore, footprints on the sand, a dried out crab shell. Look and look and try to find something different, something that speaks to you and helps you speak differently to the audience.

In the pictures below, I encountered a log on the shore — unusual for the scene and a way to vary the lines and the lighting in the photo. In the first shot, it appears in the lower third of the photo to the left. In the second it is backlit and appears in the lower third to the right. The lighting is pastel.

Shooting-at-beach-3.jpg

The third shot attempts to show the power of the waves.

Shooting-at-beach-1.jpg

Sometimes unexpected things happen, as when my dog ran into the picture. If you expose for and set up a scenic shot, wait for a minute. A bird may fly across the sky; a person or dog may run across the view. This can only make things better.